When we embarked on our project, the goals were simple-build a relatively low cost, but stout, street small block. Getting big power for little dinero means taking a hands-on, home-built approach. It requires retaining the factory hardware where we knew it'd get the job done. Exotic stuff was out. Fortunately, unlike the offerings from some of the other manufacturers, much of the OE Mopar equipment is more than up to the task in a high-performance street effort.
In the first installment in the December '99 issue, we pieced together a solid bottom end based on our '79 E core, machined by PAW.
The key players here were Federal Mogul's CP pistons to give us the compression ratio we wanted; Speed Pro moly rings to seal 'em to the bores; Milodon rod bolts to hold it all together; and a Comp Cams H cam and components to turn the numbers. The rest of the bottom end consisted of basic rebuilding components and reconditioned factory parts. To keep the budget theme, we decided to retain our stock heads-yep, those "cast in the depth of the smog era" cast-iron jobs. Knowing the heads would play a major role in delivering the output we were seeking, we took the challenge of modifying the lowliest of Mopar smog heads to perform better than the best production heads-the "X" head.
In our January and February installments, we showed every detail on how it was done-not with mega radical mods, but with a few basic street porting techniques that really work. This month we'll bolt it all together, dress it out with the valvetrain, induction, ignition, and exhaust systems, and let the dyno do the talking. Millin' Time We figured with a cold intake manifold we could reliably run a true compression on pump premium fuel.
Our final checks after the short block was assembled indicated the pistons had a positive deck height of. We did the math to determine the true compression ratio of our engine after cc-ing the much modified chambers of our heads. Then we calculated the amount of milling that would be required to get to the compression ratio we were after.
A trip to Specialized Motor Service in Riverside, California, to use their Rottler mill had the chambers down to the To allow the intake manifold to fit after milling the heads. The intake face can be milled from either the manifold itself or from the manifold surface of the heads. Our preference is to take the material off the head surface, which keeps the intake manifold standard, providing interchangeability for future head or manifold swaps without milling, and allowing the parts to be swapped from engine to engine.Glenbrook is an online mechanics writer, who enjoys rebuilding and modding classic Chrysler cars.
The Mopar is the easiest and cheapest way to build a fast small-block Mopar. It makes more power than the and it's a lot cheaper to build than a It's also the easiest to find.
After-market support for the is great, and with the right parts, it can easily make horsepower and still have great street manners. If you need more inches, it's easy to drop in a stroker crank and get cubic inches. If you want an affordable high performance small-block Mopar, the small block is your best choice. Parts and information are easy to find, and since it's a fairly popular engine, they are not too expensive.
Why is the the best choice for a high performance small-block Mopar? Size and availability. The is a great engine, but it gives up too many cubic inches in a purely performance application. The makes an awesome performance engine, but it's rare, hard-to-find, and expensive. That leaves the The does have a better performance reputation, but the is actually a pretty good choice too.
It offers 10 more cubic inches than the popular Chevy, along with shaft-mounted rocker arms and a better rod ratio. Parts availability is almost as good as the small-block Chevy, if a little more expensive.
It's pretty easy to get HP from a Mopar using mostly stock type parts. With the right modifications, you can get up to HP on pump gas without nitrous or other power adders.
This book covers both the earlier LA series and later Magnum small blocks so it doesn't matter what style you have. There's an old racing proverb that says, "there's no replacement for displacement. In the past, this could be very expensive. However with the proliferation of low-cost, semi-custom parts, this is no longer always true.
For example if the crankshaft in your needs to be reground, it's almost just as cheap to by a new cast one from Eagle or Scat. Or maybe your stock crank is OK, but you want to upgrade to a forged crank. In both cases, the stock stroke 3. Besides the extra 48 cubic inches, the longer stroke pushes the pin further up on the piston. This gives you a couple of advantages. First, it reduces piston rock. This makes your engine quieter at start-up and helps reduce friction, making your engine last longer and helping it produce more power.
For example, if you're using Keith Black pistons, the package piston and pin is at least 23 grams lighter almost 1 oz. This is dependent on application, in some instances the difference is substantially more.
About the only extra work you need to do to gain these advantages is a little block clearancing on the bottom end. That's it. Any competent machine shop should be able to do this for you. This book tells you everything you need to know.
In stock form, the is a better performance engine. If built to the same specs though, the will make at least as much power as the at a lower RPM.
Mopar Engine Performance Guide: Crankshafts and Connecting Rods
The is also easier and a lot cheaper to find.Each small-block crank has five main bearings and four journals with two rods per journal. The crankshaft is another engine part that you should take to a machine shop for inspection. A machine shop can repair almost any crankshaft if it is still in one piece. The most common problem is that small pieces of dirt pass through the engine over time and the dirt scratches the journals. The machine shop or crank grinder can typically repair this damage by carefully grinding the crank journals undersize.
A common amount for this operation is. The crank is then referred to as a crank meaning the mains and rod journals are both. You use. The stroke measurement is often used to categorize small-block cranks. Mopar A and Magnum cranks fall into one of two groups. The 3. Cast cranks are generally lighter than forged cranks. The long-stroke crank also has larger diameter mains by.
The radiused, sealing surface on the end of the number-5 main is smaller on the large-main oil pan. Small-block cranks become complicated in relation to external balancing. The is not externally balanced in either A-engine or Magnum versions. The forged-crank — is not externally balanced, but the cast-crank — is externally balanced. When building an engine, consider your performance targets. Production crankshafts are suitable for up to about hp for a high-performance street build.
Both forged and cast crankshafts are internally balanced and have been installed in production engines. The A-engine generally added weight to the torque converter face; the Magnum family adds the weight to the flexplate. In manual transmission cases, the weight is removed by drilling holes in the engine side of the flywheel.
It is very difficult to differentiate between a forged crank and a cast crank. If you have a cast crank and it has a casting number on one of the counterweights, you are in good shape. Forged cranks generally do not have 5- 6- or 7-digit numbers on the counterweight that can be used for identification. The basic forging process tends to wipe away any number, so they are very rounded and difficult to read. Cast cranks tend to have sharp edges, whereas forged cranks do not.
To tell a crank from the 3. Another advantage is having a version that is not otherwise available, such as a crank 3. Most production cranks are cast, but forged cranks are stronger and take more abuse. Cast iron is lighter than steel if all specifications are the same. Performance cast cranks from manufacturers such as Scat and Eagle weighs about 54 to 56 pounds.
Forged cranks with these same strokes from Scat, Eagle, K1, and Callies weigh about 58 to 60 pounds.At the beginning, I thought that it would be a guided course through the ins and outs of building a traditional V8 engine, with parts being supplied by the college. Boy was I wrong.
As it turned out, each student was required to produce their own parts and build their own motor. After getting over the slight shock, I realized this would be an excellent opportunity. I had been interested in motors for quite a while, especially those produced by Chrysler. After reading several articles on how many gearheads were taking regular small blocks and producing high power monsters out of them simply by lengthening the crankshaft stroke, I decided to build my own stroker motor.
After purchasing a book on rebuilding small block Mopar engines, and a book dedicated to building stroker small blocks, I set to finding a used block in the nearby junkyards. The motor itself came out of a junked Dodge transport truck, and was pretty beat up.
Luckily, most of the damage was merely cosmetic, and only a few parts had to be discarded. The water pump and timing cover had completely corroded through, and had to be beat off with a cold chisel and sledgehammer.
The exhaust manifolds were in good shape, but the studs holding them to the block had completely rusted tight to the heads. Some beating was necessary to remove them. Freshly delivered from the junkyard, the old, well used long block awaits teardown. The backside of the long block. Passenger side. The intake manifold and valve covers are removed, to expose the gooey center. Close up of camshaft, lifters, and pushrods. Gratuitous Nudity After the motor had been completely stripped down to the bare block, it was hot tanked and cleaned before being put on an engine stand.
After preliminary cleaning with soap and a stiff brush, I took the block to Burlington Engineering in Orange for a chemical dip. This procedure almost completely dissolved all the rust and corrosion inside the water jackets, as well as stripped off all the paint.
The block is now down to bare metal. The casting flash, common on Mopar engine blocks, was ground off, and after another wash with soap and water, the bores were miked for roundness and taper, and the block is ready to be bored and honed.
Up she goes!
The block is placed into the stand. The hoist is slowly lowered.The Chrysler Corporation, also operating as Chrysler LLC, introduced the Dodge cubic-inch V8 engine in the waning years of the muscle car era in Production ended in The V8 was part of Chrysler's "LA" family of engines.
The was a standard engine for Dodge trucks. The basic design of the V8 remained unchanged for more than 30 years and served as a template for the high performance Dodge Viper V10 engine. It architecture was timeless, fuel-efficient and durable for the era it was produced. The "L" in "LA" stood for lightweight. Chrysler used a thin-walled block and a smaller wedge configured combustion chamber to reduce the engine's weight by 50 lbs.
Build A Budget Mopar 360 Part 1
The ultimately replaced the to cubic-inch V8 with a slightly smaller cylinder bore of 4 inches compared to the 's 4. The 's stroke, however, was longer at 3. The standard was equipped with a two-barrel carburetor. A four-barrel version became available in When Chrysler dropped the inthe was the automaker's most powerful engine.
With its introduction in, the Dodge was one of nine V8 engines offered.360 Chrysler / mopar engine build up FordSpeed DG
Its initial horsepower rating was the second lowest of the V8 family for the model year. The featured an 8. Its torque was ft. Torque provides the acceleration for the vehicle. The 's normal oil pressure range was identical to its siblings at 45 to 65 psi.
The 's closet rival in raw power was thewhich had a larger cylinder bore at 4. The generated horsepower and ft. Byhowever, tougher government emission standards sapped the 's strength.
Chrysler detuned the to generate only horsepower and ft. The model years and were only slightly brighter for Chrysler's V8s. The was gone, but the now came with a four-barrel carb, giving buyers three engine choices. All three featured an 8. Two four-barrel versions pushed the to the top spot in power.Classic Trucks!
Facebook Twitter Comments. Build A Budget Mopar Part 1. Two Minute Tech : Engine Episodes. Need tips on tuning your carburetor, converting your vehicle to propane fuel, or just need help installing your cold air kit? There's lots to know when it comes to priming and painting your project. Learn the right way to upgrade your ride with disc brakes, break-in your new pads correctly and more in the Brakes Category.
Car Guys. They're hardcore gearheads, champion racers, and specialist builders. Discover the true gearheads of the past and present in the Car Guys Category. Fabricate your own tube chassis, repair that wrecked frame and learn from the pros how to rebuild a front end safely with these tips from the Chassis Category.
Whether you're replacing a U-joint, tearing apart a transfer case or need a hand on rebuilding your transmission, the Drivetrain Category has got you covered. Wiring a trail truck, rebuilding an alternator or making that perfect wire connection is all within reach with these tips from the Electrical Category. Get your hands dirty with these engine tech tips for testing a junkyard motor, gapping and staggering your piston rings, or getting a lesson on Pro Stock Engine tech with the Engine Category.
Nothing gives you satisfaction like knowing you built it yourself. Using these tips you'll learn how to make your own muffler, design a custom exhaust system or learn how to cool down your headers for more power in the Exhaust Category. Exterior fabrication can be a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be if you follow these tips. Learn how to repair a window channel, make a patch panel, chrome plate fiberglass parts and more in the Exterior Category.
Get your welder prepped and ready, cause your'e gonna need it! Fabricate your own custom door handles, bumpers, consoles and more with this how to from the Fabrication Category. One of the easiest ways to make more power in your ride is lowering the operating temperature in your engine. Bring back your starter, or upgrade that GM points distributor the correct way without the hassle in the Ignition Category. You're going to spend a lot of time inside your ride. Make sure your interior is in top shape without breaking the bank!
Use these great tips from the Interior Category. Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil is no longer a debate. Can't get the job done without the right tools. Learn how to make your own specialized equipment for the right project with how to from the Tools Category.
Upgrade your ride from bias to radial tires and learn how to build your own beadlock rim for your 4x4. There are even tips on how to add larger tires without needing an expensive lift kit.
It's all here in the Tires Category.Modifying magnum truck engines is a major part of our business.
Big Power in Small Packages: 360cid Mopar Small Block
To obtain more information on any part number listed in this article, please visit our website at www. To get started, you need to make a decision about power. What do you want and what do you need? An engine has 2 types of power that we usually talk about, torque and horsepower. Torque is what increases your pulling or towing capability. Torque is pulling power, good for cruising and street performance.
Torque for the most part is a product of displacement. Horsepower is most important at the track, and you may even trade off some torque to get more horsepower at a higher RPM.
Horsepower is a product of airflow resulting from parts that allow more airflow through the engine. However, there is a lot of room for co-mingling of parts. This is because part sizes are based on the ability to flow air, C. This means you can increase the size of air flow components and positively affect both torque and horsepower. Now here is where the co-mingling of parts comes in. For example, if you stroke a 5. There is a common misconception that anything bigger than the smallest cam, heads, etc.
Nothing could be further from the truth. As the engine increases in displacement, all the stock parts that control air flow act smaller because they were designed for the smaller original engine, like DUH!
So when you increase the displacement, you should increase the size of those components. Chief among them is the camshaft, then the intake manifold, heads, throttle body, headers and exhaust system, pretty much in this order. These upgrades will increase torque and horsepower at the same time. As you upgrade the air flow capacities of components, at a certain point, the horsepower increase will grow faster than the torque, and you are entering the high performance area.
The same situation exists for all the other airflow controlling parts. The displacement will determine whether a component is a torque or horsepower part. For example, a hot street cam in a 5.
Now that you know all of that, we will try to suggest the best bang-for-your-buck modification in an order intended to give you the most productive improvements.
In our opinion, the greatest restriction to making more power in stock magnum engines is the camshaft. It is not little, it is teeny weeny. The chart below compares the stock 5. This chart is not meant to show how big our cam is, but rather how tiny the stock cam is when compared to our smallest torque cam.
These changes are with a cam, lifter, timing chain and springs only. Due to the low lift and small valve springs used with the stock cam, there is not an aftermarket cam available that will work with the stock springs, and that is a good thing.